Rick Owens’ menswear collection is always exciting to watch because he creates clothes - when they race out into the runway – that look like they cater for a very specific type of man, but actually if you look at each one closer and break the ensemble apart you can extract pieces that anyone can wear.
From the textured jackets in neutral colours to the long graphic robes that look like they can be turned into more wearable loose t-shirts, Owens’ skill as a designer is to turn unorthodox ideas and turn them concrete.
It’s not easy to describe his 2012 collection but for me, they look pagan while appearing biblical and Catholic at the same time - like a new religion.
There is some form of symbolism there with the graphic shapes and the subtle duo-toned colours but it’s restrained in a way that you can’t quite make a clear and defined reference.
Owens gives the three-piece suit a twist by adding a fourth garment, the skirt. Now I’m seeing quite a lot of skirts for menswear recently, though I don’t really know what to feel about this trend, for me, Owens created the most convincing ones for men to wear. I think it’s because of the length and the colours they come in.
The skirts are paired with pants (or leggings?) of the same colour so it doesn’t draw too much attention to itself and instead plays a part of the whole outfit.
The most exciting aspect of the show for me was how it portrayed such intelligence. This collection was thought about carefully, as Owens always does, but not too much that the clothes become over complicated and become a victim of its own intelligence. It’s simple and precise but you know there’s a lot more to obtain from it beneath the surface.